i also have no spark at the coil

 

correction guys i only have an initial spark when i use the throttle while cranking it sparks once and then nothing but i have to hit the throttle while cranking

 

Did you have the carb off or the throttle cable disconnected from the carb? There are two micro switches, one on the carb and one in the throttle, and if they're not operating properly it will cut off spark. If you have a manual or if you download one from this site, you can get the check procedure for both switches.

 

ok cool ill look at those today ive been stumped when i got the bike i had takin the carb off and cleaned it thinking the idle issue was a fuel problem

 

alright guys quick update i now have spark and fuel and air but wont fire it backfires every once in awhile but wont fire up any suggestions on where i should look next and how can i tell if i have weak spark bcuz to me it just doesnt seem like a healthy enough spark but im thinking about it from an automotive point of view

 

recheck you timing, sounds like its 180 out.

 

X2 what 69 posted ^^^ there...

 

all the marks line up with the cam lobes facing kinda up and back and as far as ive been able to find this bike cant be 180 out bcuz its a waste spark ingition system aand it fires on compression and exhaust

 

Pull the timing plug on the side of the motor be sure that the T mark is lined up with the index notch in the timing plug hole and then look at the cam lobes and the cam index marks, you have to be dead nuts on the T mark not the F mark

 

ok will do so if its not dead on the t mark it mill make it not run at all ? thanks for all the help guys this bike it really starting to piss me offf

 

Yes, its not that hard once you have don't 10 or 12 of them, all my friends use to get to to do theirs, i sure miss mine a lot. let me know how it works out

 

well the t mark lines up perfect with the cam notches and lines and the crank now im concerned cuz its dead in time and still wont run and i know it has spark (possible weak?) and i know it has fuel any other suggestions guys im at my end with this d*** thing

 

and with a pipe and a uni air filter where shouls my pilot screw be set at

 

If you are talking about the air/fuel screw about 1 3/4 to 2 turns out from lightly seated, what main jet and pilot jet are you running, do you have the breather box top off?

 

well i had it all back together and thru a comp test on it and it only had 40 psi took the cam off so no valves were being touched still no comp did a wet test bumped up just a tiny tiny bit so i ordered new rings but what i dont understand is it ran before i pullled it apart is there a chance that when i did valve lashing it made the comp not sutable to start bcuz before it had an idle problem until about 2000 rpm

 

If the wet test didn't increase the compression, then you don't have a ring problem. You should have a leak down test done, but it you can't, I'd back the decompressor off almost completely and see what happens. I'd put money on a valve issue though.

 

Sounds like either the decompressor is not set right or your valves are not shimed right or the valves are shot, your decompressor should be set at around 55 to 60lbs

 

well did the rings and now my decomp actually gets a psi where it works right at 60lbs and when i had the head off i put gas in all the valve with no leaks pu;lled the valve out there all straight with no burn marks or chips no excessive carbon i have it back together but bromke a cam holder bolt so waiting on that im gunnna try and back the decomp off what would i need if backing it off works

 

and all my valves lash at exact spec from what the manual says and all the timing marks are absolutly dead on

 

You can set the decompressor with a feeler guage,i think 12 -14 thousants

 

Decompressor can be set with a feeler gauge or a compression gauge. If you set it with a feeler, as Honda shows in the service manual, take your right side exhaust valve clearance and add .010. So if you have .011 + .010, the clearance should be .021. If you're going to use a compression gauge, which a lot of racers and engine builders have been using, the magic number is somewhere between 75lbs and 85lbs.

 

the decomp in the service manual is .010 thats where i have it set (while at tdc) i had it running but it dies it will only run for a few seconds and dies and u have to pump the throttle a couple times to get it started i have the af screw at 2 turns from littly seated like u recommended which way should i be going with it to get a little more fuel

 

.010 is wrong, you need to read the manual again, or just like I said in my last post, take the measured clearance of the right side exhaust valve which should be around .011 and add .010 to that. Your actual decompressor clearance should be around .021, +/- a thousandth or two. If you set it at .010, you're adjusted way too tight, which is why your compression is low. Honda doesn't exactly make it clear in the manual, it's easy to misread it. Taken from the manual "Right side exhaust valve clearance + 0.25 +/- 0.02mm (0.010 +/- 0.001 in.)".

 

Turn in about 1/2 turn also might need to check your carb to make sure the jets are clear

 

jets are good i now have it at 1.5 turns out it started aqnd idled good but then died after about 2 minutes now theres nothing working at all no lights nothiung no blown fuses or disconnected connecters

 

this thing is really starting to piss me off i have never had a bike that was so finicky

 

Dont get mad won't do any good, check kill switch, check battery, check grounds

 

hey sorry about the delay guys havnt been able to update so i reset decomp using a comp tester now i can start and ride the bike but it has a backfire to it and still has an idle problem it will idle up and down but slowly and at times will idle and run perfect minus the backfire